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Members Projects / Re: Dry sump for a BMW 5 litre V8 engine
« on: November 05, 2013, 18:36:55 pm »
Nice job !
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2
Lathes and Turning / Re: How to generate -X moves in CB Lathe ???
« on: April 06, 2013, 15:52:13 pm »
Hi Kvom
Yes, a G52 has been applied to both header and footer for each tool, but when CB generates that tools code, the X values are positive not negivtive. The stock moves to the right away from the turn mops and ends up crashing into the fixture if we don't manually change the +X values to -X....
Do you have any idea how to switch the way CB generates the code for each mop ?
Thanks
Yes, a G52 has been applied to both header and footer for each tool, but when CB generates that tools code, the X values are positive not negivtive. The stock moves to the right away from the turn mops and ends up crashing into the fixture if we don't manually change the +X values to -X....
Do you have any idea how to switch the way CB generates the code for each mop ?
Thanks
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Lathes and Turning / How to generate -X moves in CB Lathe ???
« on: April 06, 2013, 00:46:51 am »
Our gang block is designed to be center probed and move between 3 turn tools (-X moves) and 5 drill ops (+X moves). We're offsetting them with a G52 and have the offsets ready togo. The only thing we can't seem to figure out is how to get CB lathe to generate -X moves.
Does anyone know of a way ?
Does anyone know of a way ?
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Lathes and Turning / Re: Mill To Lathe Radius Programing ?
« on: April 06, 2013, 00:41:12 am »
The CBPP was the error and have it working now. 
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
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Lathes and Turning / Re: Mill To Lathe Radius Programing ?
« on: April 01, 2013, 13:24:32 pm »
Hi kvom,
Thanks for the reply.
No, I haven't tested the code yet. The E threading turn tool I was thought might bump a few in & out spots, but that's ok for a test piece. I'll buy a longer reaching tool if needed. The tool I plan to use for facing and turning is the SVJB T1, the deep grooving & parting tool is T3. The reason for the multiple passes was, when I set a depth inc. all I saw were tangent in & out type moves, not layers when using this feature in mill mode. I'll take a look at this again. The finishing pass on the 16mm groove is what had me a little questioned, but after drawing a pin point graph I think I'm ok. CNCSIM didn't like this code at all.
Thanks for the reply.
No, I haven't tested the code yet. The E threading turn tool I was thought might bump a few in & out spots, but that's ok for a test piece. I'll buy a longer reaching tool if needed. The tool I plan to use for facing and turning is the SVJB T1, the deep grooving & parting tool is T3. The reason for the multiple passes was, when I set a depth inc. all I saw were tangent in & out type moves, not layers when using this feature in mill mode. I'll take a look at this again. The finishing pass on the 16mm groove is what had me a little questioned, but after drawing a pin point graph I think I'm ok. CNCSIM didn't like this code at all.
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Lathes and Turning / Re: Mill To Lathe Radius Programing ?
« on: March 31, 2013, 20:02:54 pm »
30 views, any one ?
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Lathes and Turning / Mill To Lathe Radius Programing ?
« on: March 31, 2013, 02:36:55 am »
I've finished the fixture and dialed in the offsets.
I'm using a G52 in my header (to locate each tool) & footer (G52 X0 Y0 Z0 to cancel each mop). I'll be using T101 as my tool, which is my stock derlin at 2"stick out from the chuck.
My part is 1.1" OD x 0.91" in length with a 16mm radius groove at the center (part pic attached). This part attached was made on a manually lathe and hoping to turn on a mill to lathe fixture. I'll be using a E threading insert (bay 2) as my radius grooving tool.
I've noticed a few G2 & G3 in the 16mm groove mops that don't look right in CNCSIM. I also attached this test parts gcode which I'm sure needs work, but wanted to make sure I'm on the right path. Any help or pointers would be great ! I'm also using a Tormach CBPP that another member was nice enough to share, if needed I can upload after I ask.
Thanks
I'm using a G52 in my header (to locate each tool) & footer (G52 X0 Y0 Z0 to cancel each mop). I'll be using T101 as my tool, which is my stock derlin at 2"stick out from the chuck.
My part is 1.1" OD x 0.91" in length with a 16mm radius groove at the center (part pic attached). This part attached was made on a manually lathe and hoping to turn on a mill to lathe fixture. I'll be using a E threading insert (bay 2) as my radius grooving tool.
I've noticed a few G2 & G3 in the 16mm groove mops that don't look right in CNCSIM. I also attached this test parts gcode which I'm sure needs work, but wanted to make sure I'm on the right path. Any help or pointers would be great ! I'm also using a Tormach CBPP that another member was nice enough to share, if needed I can upload after I ask.
Thanks
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CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Mill as Lathe video
« on: January 17, 2013, 06:18:00 am »
Awesome !
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CamBam help (General usage) / Cambam Drill features Request :)
« on: December 11, 2012, 20:23:18 pm »
I think if we could draw/click our own custom tool path, this would really help for big drill mops. Another great feature would be if you could add some sort of feature when viewing the tool path to know where it starts & ends.
e.g.
Blue - Starting point
Red - Ending point
Thanks for a great program !
e.g.
Blue - Starting point
Red - Ending point
Thanks for a great program !
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Members Machines / Re: My Beastie
« on: November 15, 2012, 18:43:55 pm »
Looks great ! Is that two motors running X? Where did you buy the ball screws and blocks ?
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Members Machines / Re: Anyone here convert a CNC lathe ?
« on: November 15, 2012, 18:11:22 pm »
Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you guys. Well I should have just converted this lathe back 4 months ago, but time was an issue. Now that my bigger jobs finished, I might have some time for this.
Hi Bob,
I can machine all the mounts in probably a day or so and have that covered, but the screws & electronics is my biggest hurdle to success. On my first diy machine I used the existing screws & steppers, my knowledge to ball screws & electronics isn't all that great. I have a few questions for anyone that has convert this machine or similar. Looks like everyone is using 5/8 ball screws and think I'll stick with that. I think the direct drive seems easier for me, because I don't fully understand the pulley ratio thing either (speed vs torque).
Ball screw length that worked best on Z & X ?
How are the ball screws mounted to the pillow block ? I see two different type ball screws, fully and partially threaded.
Hi Bob,
I can machine all the mounts in probably a day or so and have that covered, but the screws & electronics is my biggest hurdle to success. On my first diy machine I used the existing screws & steppers, my knowledge to ball screws & electronics isn't all that great. I have a few questions for anyone that has convert this machine or similar. Looks like everyone is using 5/8 ball screws and think I'll stick with that. I think the direct drive seems easier for me, because I don't fully understand the pulley ratio thing either (speed vs torque).
Ball screw length that worked best on Z & X ?
How are the ball screws mounted to the pillow block ? I see two different type ball screws, fully and partially threaded.
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CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Won't listen to start point ?
« on: August 11, 2012, 20:01:01 pm »
Not sure if you can see in the photo, but this machine file is for these side holes. You'll see a .25 & .375 tool being used, but not a full depth. I'm drilling these with a mill drill tool and using the .375 to put a little chamfer on each hole.
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CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Won't listen to start point ?
« on: August 11, 2012, 19:55:20 pm »
Ahh yes, here's a single part file 
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CamBam help (General usage) / Won't listen to start point ?
« on: August 11, 2012, 19:09:10 pm »
I normally just edit them by hand, however my next job has about 3,000 holes and for some reason can't get CB to listen when I tell it to start from this drill point. Seems to like the -X side more.... Does anyone know how to get this to work ?
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CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Poor finish on parts
« on: April 26, 2012, 17:21:10 pm »
You definitely need some coolant or WD. Tramming is a good start, have you checked the backlash on all three axis ?
Based on what I've read and a little guessing
90° Face mill (?)
Inserts condition (?)
Type of inserts (?)
DIA - 5" (?)
Flutes - 6 (?)
RPM - 2500
IPM - 15.7
DOC - .02"
SFM - 3275
FPT - 0.001 per tooth
Going off your pictures it looks like you're using a 90° FM... Not sure how much this will help being a, but here's an example of the starting point I took with my GMT FM45° 2.5" face mill
DIA - 2.5"
FL - 5
RPM - 2400
IPM - 60
SFM 1572
FPT - 0.005
Based on what I've read and a little guessing
90° Face mill (?)
Inserts condition (?)
Type of inserts (?)
DIA - 5" (?)
Flutes - 6 (?)
RPM - 2500
IPM - 15.7
DOC - .02"
SFM - 3275
FPT - 0.001 per tooth
Going off your pictures it looks like you're using a 90° FM... Not sure how much this will help being a, but here's an example of the starting point I took with my GMT FM45° 2.5" face mill
DIA - 2.5"
FL - 5
RPM - 2400
IPM - 60
SFM 1572
FPT - 0.005