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Messages - kjlpdx

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1
Related Softwares / I used to be smarter - help with macros in mach3
« on: November 26, 2020, 19:33:13 pm »
i have a custom primary panel for mach3 that has a much larger screen for instance, and i wrote an auto zero routine and button.  i have been using it for years.  well, i discovered a mistake involving imperial and metric modes, and the very last command that can possibly drive the bit thru my gauge block.  oops.  i found and corrected my macro, but forget how to update my custom screen.  in 1970's programmer language, if i even remember that correctly, I need a link and load type of step I think.  maybe something with VBA?  it's all foggy and hard to look up.  i am using X/P offline on my cnc router.

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Members Projects / Re: one-off mold for dust boot
« on: November 23, 2020, 03:05:01 am »
here's half.

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Members Projects / Re: one-off mold for dust boot
« on: November 23, 2020, 01:14:21 am »
i have a model for the 80mm spindle with a 4" vacuum hose.  easy enough to stretch and squeeze if necessary.

4
CamBam help (General usage) / Re: V-Engrave Help
« on: November 22, 2020, 20:17:17 pm »
i suggest you buy some rigid pink foam insulation for practicing on first.  it cuts quickly and doesn't dull your bits much.

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Members Projects / Re: Salt shakers
« on: November 22, 2020, 20:12:30 pm »
are the inlays colored resin or actual wood?

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Members Projects / Re: one-off mold for dust boot
« on: November 22, 2020, 20:09:50 pm »
version 2, which I modelled with the idea of a fiberglass part, not a 3D printed part.  hot glued two halves together and wrapped with shipping tape as a mold release.  2 layers of 6oz glass, more on the collars.  was able to destroy plug foam with just a screwdriver and didn't have to use acetone to melt it.  split collar that grasps the spindle so clamp can effectively squeeze, altho the fit is pretty good all by itself.  haven't needed a brush because the vacuum is so strong.  im using a HF dust collector with 5" metal duct and 4" hose.  never tried this before, but applying a very light mist of 3M spray adhesive to the glass before wrapping it over the plug worked well and didn't noticeably affect the glass from absorbing resin.  saw that hint on RC airplane and model rocket groups.

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Members Projects / Re: one-off mold for dust boot
« on: November 10, 2020, 23:41:02 pm »
that Thingiverse boot has some good ideas, however the aerodynamics of it are horrible.  with enough vacuum you can overcome that i suppose.
i was running mine today without any brush, just the housing about 1 1/2" above the wood i was cutting, and with a 1/8" bit cutting 3/4" deep the chips were being pulled out.  i had to be careful when i moved things out of the way after completion it was sucking up anything else setting on the bed.  on to version 2.0 which i will design as a male plug to be encased with fiberglass rather than 3D printed.

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Members Projects / Re: one-off mold for dust boot
« on: November 10, 2020, 16:30:35 pm »
I use a harbor freight dust collector which is outside.  I have 5” metal ductwork traveling 20’ and passing thru a window.  A disadvantage for winter is that it pumps warm air outside.

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Members Projects / Re: one-off mold for dust boot
« on: November 10, 2020, 04:25:24 am »
airnocker, i took your suggestion and made a pop bottle skirt.  my design turns out to create a real tornado, so strong that even the fairly stiff pop bottle fringe gets sucked in a bit.  i decided that the vacuum hose was too far from the spindle and ran the boot thru the band saw to shorten it.  so much for all the fancy fusion360 lofting.  the two parts now match within a 1/4"!  i will change my 3D model for the next prototype.
i may make the next dust boot using a plug rather than a mold.  i realize that building from layers of fiberglass, while quite strong, lack a lot of detail, and that sharp edges are impossible without vacuum bagging.  i will need some foam that can be easily melted.  i know styrofoam melts with gasoline, but it really lacks the ability to carve any detail being so "beady".  anyone have suggestions?  i suppose too, i could cut half pieces and then turn them over and mill the backsides.  i did this once for a big wooden spoon.  the question would be what material to carve for this project?
i like carving mold pieces from rigid pink foam.  has anyone experimented with making molds, both the female and male, and then coating the female mold and using the male to force the mold material around in a uniform thickness, like injection molding but without the pressure, and then clamp them together until the material sets up?  there are several additives for fiberglass resin that might work which make the resin thick like toothpaste.  this part needn't be perfect or gorgeous, just robust.
anyway, my turbo design appears to have great potential.  when milling with an 1/8" bit it is difficult to remove the wood chips.  this design puts all the vacuum right over the cutter, not offset by inches sucking thru bristles.  i will continue to try different ideas.

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Members Projects / one-off mold for dust boot
« on: November 07, 2020, 20:58:09 pm »
when plans to 3D print this fell thru i decided to try a one-off, quick and dirty method from fiberglass.  spent little time sanding the mold halves, then coated them with a coat of resin.  two coats of floor paste wax, and laid them up wet.  they actually came out of the mold fairly easily without a lot of damage, not that i need to reuse them.  i will cut a 80mm plug for the router hole and a 4" plug for the vac hole and glass the pieces together, then likely build up the thickness some more.  there are several layers of bias glass right now.  small scraps actually laid up the nicest.  this boot wont win any beauty contests, but that isnt a goal.  i dont even know if it will work as planned.  the traditional boot loses all vacuum when the boot is only partially over the material being milled.  i don't know if i've choked the air flow down too much.  we'll see.  not that much invested in this so far, other than time relearning fusion360 after several years off.  the 3D version was much more complex with cam straps and brush holder flanges and such.  if others have tried this or similar method i'd love to hear what your experience was.

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CamBam help (General usage) / Re: doesn't recognize .STL file
« on: November 01, 2020, 00:53:20 am »
got it to work.  i think i wasnt waiting long enough.  fusion warns that computing is done via the cloud and it took many minutes.  now to make a bunch of foam dust.  bought a 1/4 x 6" ball nose just for this.  had to reconfigure my machine to get clearances for that long bit.   fusion was pretty slick in that i was able to easily change my model to be used as a mold and compensate for the thickness of the fiberglass i plan to use.  cambam still seems to work more quickly for this kind of cutting.

12
CamBam help (General usage) / doesn't recognize .STL file
« on: October 31, 2020, 17:51:32 pm »
i designed a dust boot mold using fusion360 and exported the geometry as a .STL file.  the file exists, like 300K, but Cambam doesn't see it when i attempt to open it, even when specifying *.stl.  No ideas as to what else to try.  I am limited with the free version of fusion now.  i have created .TAP files which work like .NC files, and made them run my machine.  i still prefer the simple parallel machining of cambam and have yet to figure out how to make the complex fusion ops do the equivalent.
originally i was going to 3D print this at school, but the fancy, donated printer isnt working and no budget to get it repaired, so my idea is to mill a mold from foam and make 2 fiberglass halves.  not like it needs to be some gorgeous part, altho the renderings are fun to look at.

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Members Projects / my favorite hold downs for wood projects
« on: October 29, 2020, 18:55:42 pm »
after many iterations i found these work best for me and tend not to break if overtightened.  the screws are 2" and you can see i just screw them directly into the spoilboard and sand down the warts it leaves afterwards.  the hole is located such that the dowel is captured.  the fit is tight so as to add to the strength [which was much compromised by drilling that hole].  use a high quality 13 ply birch plywood, other stuff will split.  dowel is 1/2".
drill the dowel first, ideally perpendicular to the grain, locate in hold down, center hole and drill thru hold down, rotate drill a bit to form a bit of a slot.  insert screw, cut off dowel flush with bandsaw.
  cut "beak" notch also on the bandsaw making the cut slightly acute.  don't use drywall screws, the bugle head splits the wood.  hold downs can also be used, as shown, just resting on top of the material.

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Members Machines / Re: quick change for hobbiest?
« on: October 28, 2020, 19:45:59 pm »
it appears what i'd like doesn't exist.  i realize that the spindle shaft i have just isn't big enough for one thing to accommodate say an ISO20 collet.  the only solution i see is to buy a set of collet extensions, using one for each size bit i want to use and then mount those in the existing collet, bottoming their shaft out and recording the Z height for each tool for easy repeatability.  i do have auto zero function with mach3 which i use a lot.  mostly the hassle is having to use 2 wrenches to remove the collet nut, removing the collet and installing the new size collet and then re-zeroing the bit.  i suppose simply buying more collet nuts could be half of the solution. i've seen these plastic collars that act as a stop to set depth repeatedly.  i wish the spindle had a button to lock the shaft like my routers have, so i dont need 2 wrenches, but i realize that risks bumping a stepper motor and losing location when tightening the nut since i'd be torquing against the spindle.

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Members Machines / Re: quick change for hobbiest?
« on: October 28, 2020, 17:52:51 pm »
I am quite mistaken, I have the standard ER20 collets [at least I got the R part right  :) ]  i forget what power spindle i have, it is plenty powerful enough for what i do now.  like i said, i'm a hobbyist and seem to always be making prototypes.

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