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Messages - Chopper

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1
Good information, Dave.  I have looked at Inkscape in the past but it seemed a bit too robust for my purposes (read: steep learning curve!) I am just a hobbyist with a homebuilt CNC router, Based on your comments, I may give it another look, because I filch most of my patterns from images in books and magazines, and it sounds like the Inkscape approach to get clean drawings/patterns could  be mighty handy. Thanks again for your suggestions.

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Dave:

Appreciate your comments. Did you mean "Inkscape" instead of "Inscape"?

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dh42 - Thank you for an eminently clear and concise explanation. All of the argle-bargle plaguing me over the last few days now is much less murky. I now know to pay a lot more attention to my "raw" drawings, and how to deal with potential problems. I know to enable the cut-width parameter (had I done so I likely would not have missed the "out-of-position" tool path, since the TP would have been much more visible). I now know that "-100% resize" really means "flip and move", re-sizing being only a part of the function, and perhaps most importantly I now know how a line (polyline) can, within the context of CamBam, have two sides and why that is important. Edit: I should also mention the polyline "open/close" parameter - I am not exactly clear on why CB thinks a polyline is closed if it is indeed open -- but I will always check it going forward.

As I said at the start of this thread, CAD is not a strength of mine, but I am now more capable than I was a few days ago -- thanks largely to you, but also to the others who took the time to illustrate and explicate. I am grateful.

Be well.


4
A number of things to report (and a couple more questions). Took the advice above and endeavored to "clean up" the original drawing utilizing the recommended smoothing/arc fit protocol, and it did indeed clean up the lines quite a bit. Unfortunately, it did not solve the spurious "sizing" symptom, but it did make for a prettier drawing. I then tried re-doing the duplication using both "mirroring" (no improvement), and the "-100% resizing" suggested above. Again, no improvement. HOWEVER ... during these multiple manipulations, I happened to notice that the left profile (the smaller of the two figures after machining) showed a toolpath inside of the profile line. Aha, says I, I have accidentally set the "inside/outside" parameter erroneously ... but, alas, upon checking, said parameter was indeed set correctly, i.e., "outside". Aarrgghh ... now what? Well, after a few hours of scouring CamBam documentation, as well as the CamBam Forum, it turns out that polylines sometimes get mysteriously "reversed" (how this happens is an utter mystery to me), which, in turn, confuses CamBam  to the point that it can't tell inside from outside. Ergo, it proceeds to make an arbitrary decision re which side of a line to cut .. which, as we have observed in this thread, can cause no end of consternation to old, fat guys just trying to make a dadgum shelf. It further turns out that there is a little-known CB instruction (Edit>Polyline>Reverse) which will, in some arcane fashion, "flip" the polyline (who knew a polyline could have two sides?), thereby tricking CamBam into believing that the polyline being dealt with is actually right-side-up (or something) so that it will put the tool path on the proper side of the line. So ... I did all this and, hot damn, the two parts came out exactly alike. Whew ...

I will readily admit that I might have been more perceptive in noticing earlier the errant tool path placement, but in my defense, there were a LOT of lines and colors and splotches on the screen.

That's the report ... these are my questions:

1. Is there documentation/instructions/graffitti somewhere that will educate me as to how in the wide world of sports one is supposed to know that a "-100% resize" command will result in a drawing being rotated/moved ... but no apparent resizing takes place at all? That is mystical to the point of impenetrability. It doesn't really impinge on the original problem, but ....
2. Is there a (relatively) easy way to permanently get rid of old, no longer current tool paths? After re-building TPs a few times, my screen begins to resemble a Jackson Pollock painting.

This missive has gone on long enough. Thanks to all for your patience, suggestions and forebearance.

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Thanks folks ... several things for me to ponder. We have holiday company right now so it will be a day or so before I get a chance to work on your ideas. I appreciate your interest. More anon ...

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lloydsp:

You're right ... it is NOT a mirrored copy (I never said it was); I simply copied/ pasted the left one, then moved it to the right (via shift-right arrow), the flipped it 180 degrees using 'numerical-rotate)so they appeared to be mirror images, then added the slot to the left figure, copied/pasted the slot, and moved the copy to the right figure (again, using shift-right arrow). I then flipped the left figure and superimposed it over the right figure (using shift-right arrow) to check that they were alike (which they were). I then moved everything back to where it was supposed to be, ran the tool path(s), generated the .nc file, and put it on the CNC. The result, as I've previously noted, was that the right figure profile is smaller by a fairly consistent sixteenth of an inch or so. The pockets are also smaller but by only by a few hundredths of an inch.

You are also correct that the Y axis is not 100% vertical, though it is difficult to see why that would impact the result. The CNC doesn't care what angle things are at - it's just going to cut/mill/route whatever it sees (as long as we're referring to 2D in the XY plane of course). I could put it at 45 degrees and it should still cut the part accurately. If your comment was simply a shot at my CAD ability/technique, then I'll grant the point - CAD is not my forte. The "raw drawing" was a scan of a pattern that I bitmapped into CB, then cleaned it up so it would generate a tool path.

Quote
However you created that right copy, it's not a faithful copy
... Dunno what to say here ... if copy and paste doesn't produce a faithful copy then I am gobstopped. My only comment would be that perhaps the rotating of the image in some manner affected the sizing of the image???

Anyway, thanks for your comments

Edit: I forgot to note that "nesting" (as I understand it) wouldn't work here, because the two parts must be mirror images - otherwise the shelf "slot" on one of them would be on the wrong side.

us

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DH42 - Sure thing. Attached is a ZIP of the CB file, as well as the .nc file. Thank you for your interest.

Tool-n-around - I know almost nothing about nesting, so I chose not to go that route, though I may be forced to it if I can't figure this out. Thanks for your interest.

Just as an aside, my biggest complaint about CamBam is the lack of organized, easy-to-find, easy-to-follow instructions for the various procedures, operations, etc. It seems to me that one really has to dig to get useable information. I know that those of you who are CamBam experts will find my criticism facile and undeserved, but just reading this forum tells me that I am not the only CB neophyte trying to make sense of the CamBam world. I could really use a few more basic no-jargon, step-by-step tutorials. Having said all that, I hasten to say that I generally like CB, and I intend to continue using it to the extent that I am able.

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Have a fairly complex part (modeled in CamBam) that I need two of. So I copied/pasted an exact duplicate next to the master, ran a tool path which looked OK, output an .nc file and ran it on my Mach3-based DIY router machine. However, the two parts came out different sizes - correct in every detail except the second was about 5% smaller than the first. Perfectly proportioned, but undeniably smaller. I don't know if this is due to CamBam problems, Mach 3 problems or something wrong with my machine. I have used this system for 2 or 3 years with no such symptom. I am frankly baffled. It is a fairly lengthy .nc file (in excess of 70,000 lines of gcode) so I haven't as yet had time to run it again so I don't even know if this was a one-time glitch or a systemic problem. I am curious if anyone else has had a problem like this, or any ideas what might cause it?

BTW it is just a straightforward 2D job ... several pockets and 2 profiles (one for each iteration of the part).

Any ideas will be appreciated.

Oh, and ...Happy Easter!

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Scripts and Plugin Help / Re: VBS scripts will not run with Windows 11
« on: March 21, 2024, 20:11:36 pm »
Again, thanks to all who responded. Slept on it ... decided it was no big deal. MS implies that as soon as I'm updated to Build 25309 my problem might be solved - I have my doubts.

 At any rate, failing the appearance of some digital epiphany, I will simply rely on scripts/plugins/whatevers that have been constructed by others, or not use them at all ... it's not like I make a living with my homemade CNC router ... it's just a past-time.

Not gonna learn Python (or anything else in the way of computer programese) ... not gonna go back to an older system (I already have 3 machines to keep track of, don't want another). Not worth the hassle.

Thanks again, folks ... and be well.

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Scripts and Plugin Help / Re: VBS scripts will not run with Windows 11
« on: March 20, 2024, 22:47:47 pm »
DH2: thank you for your quick response ... much appreciated. Unfortunately, the referenced "fix" did not work for me. Apparently, my Windows "Build" doesn't contain VBScript, so I wasn't able to enable ("add") it. I'm so frustrated now that I'm just walking away from the whole mess for a while. Thanks again.

And by the way, for anyone reading this: DO NOT INSTALL WINDOWS 11!  iT IS SIGNIFICANTLY LESS ENJOYABLE THAN ROPE BURNS, ACID REFLUX, AND HAVING YOUR TESTICLE POUNDED FLAT WITH A WOODEN MALLET.

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Scripts and Plugin Help / VBS scripts will not run with Windows 11
« on: March 20, 2024, 21:38:16 pm »
I recently upgraded to Windows 11 (My old computer died & the new one came with W11). I am now unable to run VBS scripts (Python scripts run just fine). Sadly, I don't write Python ... been a VB guy for years. I really don't want to learn a new computer language at this stage of life. When I try to run a VBS script, I get an error message that says it can't find "Microsoft.VisualBasic.vsa" followed by a whole mess of alphabet soup. Has anyone else seen this or anything similar, and does anyone have any suggestions? I am at my wit's end.

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CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Trying to mill a very shallow dome
« on: October 27, 2019, 01:51:14 am »
EddyCurrent:

Just a quick progress report. I was able today to cut a complete (both sides!!) dome using your .cb file. I made a couple of minor changes to coincide with my mill and set-up (used larger positioning dowels so I wouldn't have to change cutters, and re-positioned them on the Y axis instead of the X). I used a piece of waste wood (pine from a glued-up two by four) for the maiden run, and slowed it down a bit from what I usually run. Took around 3 hours to run all three MOPs but I was quite happy with the result. The pine is very soft and "shaggy" and quite ugly but the final product was precisely the right size and shape. As soon as I get the finished product milled using decent wood I will try to post a pic or two.

I should also mention I spent several hours studying the file/model you provided, as well as running it on a simulator,  and feel like I have increased my CamBam IQ quite a bit - thanks to you and the other folks here. I do have a few questions about why you chose some of the settings, etc., in your file, and, if you will indulge me a bit further,  I will be posting those when I have the time.

For now, know that I am very grateful for your kindness and assistance.

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CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Trying to mill a very shallow dome
« on: October 25, 2019, 17:51:18 pm »
Thank you, David. Valuable information, which I will put to use when I reach that point in the process.

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CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Trying to mill a very shallow dome
« on: October 24, 2019, 15:45:32 pm »
"...  it would be best to cut the inside (concave) first so that the stock would be more stable when flipped over to do the outside (convex)"

Yes ... that makes sense. I would be interested in any tips for accurate alignment of stock when I flip it over (assuming I get to that point) ;)

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CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Trying to mill a very shallow dome
« on: October 24, 2019, 12:32:03 pm »
I forgot to say in the above post that the dome I am trying to make is not just a solid dome with a rounded top and a flat bottom, but more like a platter. Think of an upside-down cymbal (with no hole in the middle, obviously). It needs to be 1/8" (or so) in thickness.

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